Adventures of the Voyager:
Index:
-- Summer 2011
-- Fall2010
-- Spring 2010 ICF Pro
-- Alaska/BC Photo Tour
-- 2008 Valley Land Fund "South Texas Shootout"
-- First Grand Prize Winner 2007 Coastal Bend Wildlife
Photo Contest
-- Alaska 2007
-- 2006 South Texas Shootout
-- Just Stuff
-- Summer '05
-- Travel in Mexico
Spring/Summer 2012
Spring
will
include a trip to Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge and
Big Bend National Park.
Something NEW for 2012 is the Images
for Conservation "Pro-Am Tournament Click
here for
information. I will lead two of the events. Look at the schedule and
consider participating. It will be an extraordinary experience for
those of you who have never photographed on a south Texas ranch that
has been groomed for world class bird photography with mammals,
reptiles, wildflowers, butterflys and more. |
Summer 2011
You should
lhave been in Yellowstone in May. The snow covered all of the
park. The only reasonably clear location was Lamar Valley.
As a result there were plenty of animals grazing and hunting
there. Of course there were plenty of photographers too.
Snow off road in other places was 4 to 10 feet and deeper. Haden
Valley was white except for the trees protruding from the show.
It was a winter wonderland in spring. In previous years I was
there in mid May and there was snow but for the most part it was only
there in traces. Swan Flat and Swan Lake was frozen. There
was excellent action if you were at the right place at the right
time. The park is so big that being at the right place is a trick
requiring luck and or connection to a network of photographers in
different locations. This was the year of the snow.
I left Yellowstone about 5 June and headed to my favorite location in
Alaska. On the way I visited with friends in northern BC.
There were Loons on the lake so that was an unexpected
opportunity. There are loons on many lakes in BC. Anyone
who has never listened to the call of the Loon is missing one of the
beauties of life.
Hyder was my final and most distant location. It was great to
reunite with my friends there. The driving distance is
great so I travel there only every second year. This year was a
little cooler than usual I think. Not uncomfortable though.
The grizzly population was limited and seemingly diminishing each
year. This year there was a good but a bit late salmon run.
My guess is that the bears are finding better fishing with less human
interference on the north side of the Salmon River.
My partner Ruth joined me in August. About 2 weeks after we
departed Hyder there were trorential rains. The only road
into Stewart BC and Hyder AK washed out in a number of places.
Some of the RVs that were still there were barged to Prince Rupert and
the owners flew there to retrieve their rigs. Others stayed and
reported extraordinary opportunities because they were almost alone at
the creek. I believe the Canadian government did a great job
getting the road open by installing temporary bridges and making
temporary repairs in about 3 weeks. The communities were cut off
without that highway.
The return trip included the obligitory stop in Yellowstone and Grand
Teton National Parks. Then it was time to go home and try to get
some of the summers work turned into money. That is not the fun
part of the business though. |
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Spring 2011
I hope to see you in
Yellowstone and Alaska and
points between this spring and summer. I also recommend
photographing
the bird migration in South Texas in April. There are quite a few
private
ranches that cater to photographers. I suggest you contact Ruth Hoyt for
information and guide service.
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Fall 2010
In
August 2010 I spent a week on Chuck Keim's boat the Coastal Explorer on
the
shores of Katmai National Park. This was a repeat of a trip in
2001
but at
a different time of the summer. It was the season of the bears.
The
salmon run had started but was still slow and the bears
were hungry. We saw about 30
bears the first afternoon and I didn't bother counting other days.
Needles to say there were plenty.
Now I am getting reved up for spring and summer in Texas, Yellowstone
and
Alaska. Preparations will not get in high gear for a while yet but
I
already look forward to the adventure. This trip is always an
adventure.
Each of these locations offer different environments and
creatures.
I just finished an interesting survey. The institution conducting the
survey
is studying the percieved impact of nature photographers on the
environment.
I know others think we have considerably more impact on the publics
perception
of the environment than I.
My thought is that all photography is done
in our environment and as such is a record of the environment at the
moment
of "exposure'. My office and my computer screen are my focus at
the
moment and are a major part of my environment. That is so just as
the
forest and streams in which I photograph grizzly bears are the
environment.
Both are fragile. Both require protection. Then, of course,
we
decide from who and from what these environments need protection and
which
must evolve for the good of the other."
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Spring 2010 ICF Pro Tour
contest
The ICF Pro
Tour was held on 20 Ranches in the area surrounding Laredo Texas.
You can read about the contest at http://www.imagesforconservation.org/
In the ranch/photographer drawing I was partnered with a ranch north of
Laredo
on the Rio Grande river. The judges are at work now and results
will
be announced in July. I was fortunate to capture a few good
images
but far to few to score well in the contest. If I am surprised by
the
judging I will revise this post and brag but don't look for that to
happen
this year. Read about the Pro Tour on the ICF website. It
is
a well planned and executed contest. Unfortunately it may be
another
casualty of the economy.
P.S. I hear things are pretty hot in Yellowstone N.P. this spring.
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2009 Southern Alaska &
Northern
BC
2009 was
intended
to include another great tour of South East Alaska. Due to forces
beyond
our control that didn't happen. We did have a great summer there.
Weather
conditions were unusual. It got quite warm for a week or so.
Snow
melt was rapid causing several incidents. Amoung them was a 100
yard
gap in the only road to Salmon glacier and the loss of a main power
pole
into the valley leaving us without power for a few days. Other
than
that the salmon run was good and the bears had a good summer showing
off
for us :) Last years run was the smallest in many years.
The
bears went to bed hungry and there were no spring cubs. That was
a
dissapointment but I expect there will be several sets of them next
year.
Bear action was good with a pair of 4 year old Grizzlies playing
together
and fishing together. They were full of energy and we had plenty
of
action. Alpine wildflowers were great before the road washed out.
They
were slightly less spectacular by the time the road was repaired.
I
left with a good number of bear photos and some snowy landscapes.
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2008 Valley Land Fund
"South Texas Shootout"
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2008
was the first year that I expected to do very well in a contest.
You
and I both know that when you start to get confident fate and the
judges
tell you how it really is. In any case the contest was difficult
and
rewarding as usual. The environment was target rich and the
opportunities
varied. I placed 5th this year and will just give it that much
more
effort next time.
If anyone wants more lnformation on these contests send me an email and
I will give you all the information I have on them.
NOTICE! The Valley Land Fund cancelled the 2010 South Texas
Shootout. This may be the end of a great contest.
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First Grand Prize
Winner
2007 Coastal Bend Wildlife Photo Contest
| My
partner Ruth Hoyt and I won First Grand Prize in the Coastal Bend
Wildlife
Photography Contest in 2007. The Coastal Bend Wildlife Photography
Contest
is the third of three major wildlife photography contests in the U.S.A.
The contest structure is similar to the Valley Land Fund Contest. It is
located in the Texas Coastal Bend near Corpus Christi, Texas. We were
pleased
and honored to be invited to partner with the Fennessey Ranch near
Refugio, Texas. This was a 5 month long contest which demanded a large
portfolio of images made on the partner ranch during those 5 months.
The
book “Wildlife In Focus IV” produced by the contest was dedicated
to our host, Fennessey Ranch
owner, Brian O'Connor Dunn for his work in enhancing and preserving
crucial wildlife habitat. |
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Alaska 2007
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2007
trip to Alaska included the inauguration of my Southern Alaska &
Northern BC Photo Tour. The participants loved the tour so I consider
it
a great success. I persuaded Ruth Hoyt
to be my co-leader for this tour. That was one of my better decisions
as
she was a hit with the participants and they valued her helpful photo
hints
and suggestions. One of the highlights of our tour was one of our
participants
photographed a Kermode bear on the last day of the tour. I have visit
this
part of the world every second year since 2000 and have never seen a
Kermode. Still haven't seen one as this one didn't stay visible long
enough for me
to see it. The summer was late this year and I was concerned that the
road
to the "summit" might not be clear of snow in time for the tour. It was
however and all was well. It didn't even rain during the tour which is
a
very unusual condition during August in this temperate rain forest. My
thanks
to my friend Ron Jelen for his indispensable help during the tour and
for
his cheerful companionship exploring the back country; to Suzie at Camp
Run-A-Muck;
and to Kathy and Ron at Kathy's Korner. They and many others always
make
my stay in Hyder very pleasant. |
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2006 Valley Land Fund " South
Texas
Shootout"
2006 was
the year for another Valley Land Fund wildlife photography contest.
Briefly the contest is held in the eight southern most Texas counties.
The contest was a three month long event this year starting 1 April and
ending
30 June. It is now the second most prestigious and lucrative wildlife
photography
in the country. Look them up at www.valleylandfund.com.
It was a difficult contest from my point of view. (Of course each of
the
three VLF contests I entered was difficult.) There had been no rain
since
July 2005. The brush country was brown and largely barren. The drought
seemed to affect small prey animals and some insects most. Birds were
in
good supply early in the contest. In late May or early June there were
several
inches of rain and range conditions improved quickly.
I was privileged to partner with the Cook Ranches for the contest. I
had
access to three properties totaling about 35 thousand acres. One of the
smaller of the three ranches was populated by many exotic species from
around
the world. When I drove through the gate to this ranch I always felt I
had been transported to Africa. The opportunity to photograph exotics
could
only be duplicated in another very large wild animal park.
I lived in my 5th wheel trailer in the middle size of the three ranches
which is managed for its White-tail deer herd. Unfortunately the
contest
started after most of the deer had shed their antlers. Of course there
were
plenty of other great subjects on the ranch.
The largest of the three ranches is primarily a cattle operation and
there
are two leases for trophy White-tail deer hunting. The people I met on
the
Cook properties were the extraordinarily friendly. When I was saying my
goodbyes to some of the members of the deer lease and thanking them for
their
hospitality they modestly said they didnÂ’t do anything special for
me. I asked them to do nothing special for me the next time. IÂ’m
not sure that I could stand special treatment by them.
If you have only photographed on public land you canÂ’t imagine how
different the photographic opportunities are on private property.
Take a look at the valleylandfund.com. If you are a wildlife
photographer
and have a few weeks to spend shooting on a private ranch you might
consider
entering the 2008 contest. It is a real challenge and great fun.
After returning from Alaska in October 2005 I was involved in the
repair
of hurricane Camille damage to my home. That work was completed the day
before I left for Texas in Mid March. As a result I did little with my
stock
from the Â’05 Alaska trip and didnÂ’t live in my house until
17 July Â’06. I am now trying to get this site and my stock updated
for the last year. I hope you enjoy the new images.
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Just Stuff
Katrina has come and gone. Rita has come and gone. Black mold has come
and is now gone from my house
and the reinstallation of roof and drywall has started. In fact, my
contractor
says it will be about 3 weeks until I am back in my house will be like
new. In the mean time I am living in my trailer in the front yard. A
large part
of the Gulf Coast is still a disaster area, but in my personal space
all
is well.
Summer '05
My summer Â’05 stock trip
to Alaska was extraordinary. This year I towed my 5th wheel to Hyder
Alaska. Previously I considered this my secret place because so few
people go there
and fewer yet stay more than a few days. The weather is often rainy as
the
area is in the largest temperate rain forest in the world. They see 120
inches of annual precipitation on average. All of us were first
attracted
to Hyder by stories of the bears at Fish Creek. Those of us who stay
for
longer know that the attractions of Hyder extend beyond the bears to
the
glaciers, Salmon Glacier to be specific; wonderful alpine wildflowers
and
vistas; gold and copper mines old and new; old growth hemlock forests;
birds
and wildlife; fish and fishing and last but not least, the people. All
in
their way are wonderful to see and meet.
It is not uncommon for someone to say “if I wanted to hide
from everyone and wanted at the same time to stay in the United States,
I
would go to Hyder. You canÂ’t get there by mistake. There is only
one road in and the same one leads you back to the main highway. Hyder
itself
is reminiscent of an old western frontier town. It has that feel and
look. When you leave Canada you leave the pavement until you return to
Canada. The potholes can be pretty deep. The residents are just as self
sufficient,
independent and friendly as the early frontier people must have been
too.
The weather this summer was normal to warm. After a slow start
I think it was decided that the Chum and Pink Salmon run was about
average. On the other hand the bears were much more in evidence than in
the last
few years. Almost everyone that went to the bear viewing area in August
saw a bear. Most of the time it was a grizzly bear that they saw and
sometime
the black bears came to see us.
Perhaps the most unusual site this year was a large grizzly bear
in a tree in down town Hyder. I didnÂ’t think grizzlies climbed trees
and this one seemed comfortable about 30Â’ above the ground. It seems
a couple of town dogs chased him there and he wasnÂ’t in a hurry to
climb down. Almost everyone in town came to see him.
It was a wonderful summer for me. Everywhere else seems so crowded and
tame.
A few of my photos are in the Alaska Â’05 gallery and a few more are
scattered about in the generic galleries.
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Travel in Mexico
Many people travel to
Mexico by air, land in Cancun, spend a few days in the sun in a
beautiful
Caribbean location where all is comfortable and familiar. The
accommodations
near the great Mayan Ruins like Cichen Itza, Coba or those near Mexico
City
also cater to a large population of English speaking people. If you are
a little more adventurous though, you can travel all over Mexico using
public
transportation. Buses that travel between cities are large,
air-conditioned;
TV equipped, very comfortable and traveling by bus is reasonably
priced. You can park your car and board a bus in U.S. cities near the
border to
begin your trip. The usual customs inspections are still required but
the
remainder of your trip is usually undisturbed by the authorities. My
experience
with this process is boarding the bus in McAllen, Texas where the bus
station
has a secure parking lot for travelers.
For photographers, travel by bus solves the problem of film being
ruined by X-ray. It also eliminates the problem of having overweight
luggage. Of course you still have to pay the penalty of carrying and
keeping track
of all that luggage. Then, that is the penalty we always seem to pay
willingly.
Whether you fly or take the bus you need local transportation at
your destination. Rental auto agencies are available in all of the
larger
cities. Where they are not available you can certainly find a friendly
guide
that will, for a fee, take you to the locations you want to see. Unless
you have researched the area extensively, they will likely recommend
places
you would never find without them. My only experience with a guide was
in
the northern Yucatan where a friend and I hired a small
boat and captain to photograph flamingos. The cost was reasonable and
the
guide knew his business. His English was good. We had a great time. I
was still diving at the time so this was a combination diving and
photography
trip. As you know, divers carry as much luggage as photographers so I
didnÂ’t
take a 500mm lens. Next time it will be a photo trip and the long
glass,
now a 600 IS, will go too.
You may have noticed that I havenÂ’t recommended traveling
in Mexico using your own vehicle. I intended to do just that and
mentioned
it to a number of my friends who have traveled in Mexico and some who
are
Mexican citizens. With one exception they tried to discourage me. Of
course
I thought, what could go wrong. You buy the necessary auto insurance at
the border, get a passport, visitors permit and automobile permit and
all
is well. I drive a Ford 350 pickup so it is a fairly large vehicle.
Some
of the towns in Mexico were built more than a century ago. Streets are
often
narrow for even a compact car. Driving customs and laws are a little
different
than ours. Even at that I planned to use my truck. On a recent trip I
was
with a group of friends in Mexico City. Most of the people were fluent
in
Spanish and several were citizens of another state in Mexico. We were
driving
a vehicle with U.S. license plates. We were stopped for an illegal
right
turn and the fine on the spot was $100 USD. I think because we were
able
to communicate well, the fine was reduced to $20 through negotiations.
That
pretty well clinched it for me. I now think leaving most of the driving
to the bus driver and renting a car with local licenses is prudent. It
is
a lot more relaxing too. The one exception I mentioned was expressed in
a recent conversation with an acquaintance who told me he always drives
to
various parts of Mexico and never has a problem. He is very comfortable
driving there. You be the judge and enjoy your trip, however you
travel,
and the great photo ops you will undoubtedly find.
Update May 2010
Conditions have changed regarding travel to Mexico. I no
longer
recommend travel to Mexico due to the violence in the country. I
would
consult the State Department website prior to traveling there.
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